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In the NCA July
is usually the driest of months
and so it is proving to be this year. Visitors are enjoying the endless vistas
of the Serengeti from the many
spectacular view points of the Ngorongoro Highlands
as they disappear into hazy horizons.
After game viewing on the cloudless
short grass plains the day long, safari guests pull into their chosen accommodations
silhouetted against tawny sunsets
that reach high into the sky.
The new moon is a
sliver of a crescent lying on its back for a short time on
the eleventh evening of July. Venus
almost outshining the moon is still gracing the western sky just above it,
making viewing around the campfire
one of the high points of the day.
These winter months are important ones for the ongoing studies at Oldupai
Gorge. A comprehensive team of international
archaeologists and scientists of several other disciplines,
including highly trained and experienced Tanzanians,
whose varied specialities cover many related fields, have returned to continue
their work in the Gorge.
This work conducted under Dr Rob Blumenschein of
Rutgers University is mostly undertaken at this
time of year when they can be quite sure little or no rain will interrupt
the necessarily intricate and detailed observations of all those involved.
Dry season work at Oldupai is undertaken in the presence of brightly coloured
Agama lizards seen sunning themselves amongst the
unusual and unique flora of the almost 50
km long canyon.
The name 'Oldupai' comes from wild
sisal (Sansevieria) which grows in abundance there.
Short lived lances of startling reds and orange announce the dry season flowering
of aloes on which several kinds sunbirds feed.
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Cheetahs
take advantage of the deep shade given by the Umbrella
tree (Acacia tortilis) while the hardy grant's
Gazelle lose form in the in the noon day sun's heat waves.
Each
month at Endulen, a small settlement which consists
of a hospital, ranger station and scattered 'bomas',
a market is held.
Maasai come from all over the NCA to trade cattle,
goats and exchange and barter other wares.
This is an important month as cattle are still holding their condition and
big decisions are made as to which cattle are kept and which are to be let
go in preparation for the coming dry period. Calabashs
are sold in numbers, as consideration is made of means with which to carry
milk during the long trek to seasonal grazing.
Piles of all sizes dot the grounds amongst colourful cloth
and carefully measured hills of salt.
Women walking among potential buyers with staves
threaded with soccer ball sized, dried fungi called
'Enkishumuyi', intently explain how these harvested
bush wares will put unwary bees to sleep while
honey gatherers collect sweet honey without even
one sting.
Locally brewed honey beer is sold to ease protracted
negotiations and the air is filled with the inciting smell of
roasted meat for those who are there to see the setting sun.
The Maasai do not have a direct translation for the word 'welcome'
in their language Kimaa. Their welcome is expressed
in their friendly acceptance and interest in their visitors. The word
'Karibu' is heard over and over again though and is the Kiswahili
word for welcome in Tanzania's national language.
Another extraordinary event in the unfolding calendar of Ngorongoro and one
like many others, not to be missed.
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